Slow-Braised Beef Shin Ragù
Beef shin is the cut for this. It is cheap, full of connective tissue, and completely unpromising when raw — and after three hours in a low oven it collapses into strands in a sauce so glossy it looks lacquered. Mince makes a quicker ragù; it does not make this one.
There is no wine here. What gives the sauce its depth instead is time, a properly browned soffritto, a spoonful of tomato purée cooked until it darkens, and a small splash of balsamic vinegar right at the end to lift everything. Milk, added early, keeps the meat tender and rounds off the acidity of the tomatoes.
Make it a day ahead if you can — it is better for a night in the fridge. Serve with pappardelle or rigatoni, a hard cheese, and nothing else that needs attention.
For the ragù
To serve
Heat the oven to 150°C fan / 170°C / gas 3. Pat the beef dry and season well. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a large casserole over medium-high heat and brown the chunks hard on all sides, in batches — a deep crust here is most of the flavour. Set the beef aside.
Lower the heat to medium and add the last tablespoon of oil. Cook the onion, carrot and celery gently for 12–15 minutes until soft and just colouring. Add the garlic for the final 2 minutes.
Stir in the tomato purée and cook, stirring, for 2–3 minutes until it turns from bright red to brick and smells sweet rather than sharp.
Return the beef and any resting juices. Add the crushed tomatoes, milk, stock, bay and rosemary. Bring to a gentle simmer, then cover and transfer to the oven.
Cook for 3 hours, turning the beef once halfway, until it falls apart at the push of a spoon. If the sauce looks thin near the end, finish it uncovered on the hob for 15 minutes.
Lift out the bones and bay. Shred the beef with two forks and stir it back through. Add the balsamic vinegar, taste, and adjust the salt and pepper.
Cook the pasta until just al dente. Drain, keeping a mugful of water. Toss the pasta through the ragù over low heat with a splash of the water and a handful of grated cheese until it coats every strand. Serve with more cheese.
Cut choice: Ask for beef shin on the bone if you can — the marrow enriches the sauce. Boneless shin or brisket also work; add 30 minutes for brisket.
Ahead: Keeps 3 days in the fridge, freezes 3 months. Reheat gently with a splash of water.
No balsamic: A teaspoon of red wine vinegar plus a pinch of sugar does the same job.
Stretch it: An extra tin of tomatoes and 300ml stock turns 6 portions into 8 without losing much.